Otter Rapids Dam to County Road O:
This trip on the upper Wisconsin River is one of the DNR’s six recommended routes located within the Northern Highland-American Legion State Forest, and it comes with two very distinct personalities. The first, a scenic and wild environment with numerous boulder gardens, riffles, and one – maybe two – Class I rapids. The second is also scenic, but along wide-open marsh and lake-like surroundings. In total, it’s a wonderfully diverse stretch for being relatively short on mileage. Due to it’s proximity to Eagle River and also being serviced by a local outfitter, the first section is a popular northwoods paddle so plan on entertaining company (or hopefully, paddling alongside company that is entertaining.)
Rating: ☆ ☆ ☆ ☆
Trip Report Date: July 18, 2023
Skill Level: Beginner
Class Difficulty: Class I
Gradient:
≈ 3′ per mile.
Correlative Gauge Recorded on this Trip:
Lac Vieux Desert: ht/ft: 80.47 | cfs: n/a
Recommended Levels:
The gauge doesn’t directly correlate to this paddle, but it is a good indicator of recent precipitation. This section is almost always paddle-able even though levels are completely affected by water releases from Otter Rapids Dam. I learned that the dam favors water levels upstream from the dam for recreational purposes (specifically, those recreating on their waterfront property) – not downstream. The water levels were low on this trip, but not too low. As Svob mentions, in high conditions, the river can become dangerous as there are many boulders. But at low levels it’s fine for beginners who have some moving water experience because there are plenty of things to navigate in a relatively swift current. Regardless of the level, you’ll encounter some bumps and scrapes from the many boulders lurking just below the surface. Contact Hawk’s Nest Outfitters if you’re curious about current conditions.
Put-In:
Otter Rapids Dam, Cloverland Drive, Eagle River, Wisconsin
GPS: 45.90414, -89.32136
Take-Out:
County Highway O
GPS: 45.88666, -89.43436
Time: Put in at 11:40a. Out at 1:50p.
Total Time: 2h 10m
Miles Paddled: 7
Wildlife:
Wood ducks, heron, geese, angled fish, and countless bald eagles.
Shuttle Information:
The shuttle is a quick 10-minute drive almost entirely along Highway 70. At times, you’ll get a glimpse of the river and be struck by the impressive boulder gardens. I wouldn’t recommend biking along this highway – it’s far too busy. Alternatively, Hawk’s Nest Outfitters offers shuttles.
Background:
For the past three years, we’ve held a family reunion up in Eagle River which has now become an annual tradition. It’s a great tradition (awesome, actually) and I’m lucky to have married into a family that understands that when you’re a paddler sequestered in the northwoods of Wisconsin who happens to write a paddling blog, the itch to paddle is far too much, and well, they’ll put up with it/me. The first year, I was able to paddle the charming Deerskin River. Last year, however, I wasn’t able to stay the entire week, so this year I was excited to get out and explore another stretch of water. And of course, in these parts there’s many opportunities, specifically on the Upper Wisconsin River. I scanned Mike Svob’s Paddling Northern Wisconsin and found a short section just west of Eagle River, and conveniently down the road from where we were staying. This made for a quick and convenient day trip, including the shuttle (made even quicker by dropping off my car and having the family shuttle me back to the put-in).
This segment really is a tale of two distinct stretches, ending just before the long and large Rainbow Flowage. The first four and a quarter miles begin as a narrow and heavily-wooded river with steady current and many boulders and boulder gardens to navigate around. After that, it stops on a dime, and you’ll encounter a few miles of quietwater. For those seeking fun sans-lake paddling, there’s a takeout on Highway 70 just before the current slackens and where the majority of paddlers exit. It shortens the trip, but it’s still a rather wonderful (and eventful) 4.25-mile paddle on its own.
Those looking for a peaceful-er flatwater paddle in a somewhat secluded environment, or even those looking for an overnighter will appreciate the extra (almost) three miles. I had actually (somewhat) written about this segment in the Canoe & Kayak Camping Guide. I hadn’t paddled it myself yet, so I was particularly interested in the first-come, first-served primitive campsites, of which there were three. I stopped by one of them to scout the setup – more on that later.
Overview:
Before putting-in I figured I’d encounter some paddling company since Hawk’s Nest Outfitters services this stretch of river for canoers, kayakers and tubers, but I was surprised by just how busy it was for a Tuesday. Then again, the weather was beautiful and mid-summer in the Eagle River area is a highly desireable way for Wisconsinites to burn a week of vacation. I, myself, waited for a group of a dozen kayakers and eight tubers to put-in, but that’s no complaint, I was in no hurry. If you do find yourself waiting, you can always take a self-guided tour of the Otter Rapids Hydroelectric Dam which is one of the oldest power plants on the Wisconsin River.
The put-in at the dam is easy, well-used, and welcoming with a clear and swift current winding downstream. The whole first section is really pretty, actually. The shuttle gives away some of the plot as Highway 70 winds back and forth next to the river throughout, sometimes hugging it tightly, revealing the boulder-ridden river that awaits. That does mean of course that there’s a bit of highway noise along the way, but this is one of those paddles where the din of the riffles and current outweighs the din of the nearby highway.
The river begins somewhat wide at over 200′ and there are a lot of boulders and boulder gardens creating some mild riffles, solid riffles, and one Class I rapid. It continues this way for almost the entire 4+ miles and is just a whole lot of fun. Be mindful that at any water level, there’s gonna be boulders lurking below – the beginning is studded with them.
The water begins super clear and very shallow to start – as little as 6” – but some of the boulder gardens create deeper pools around the bends. Again, it was low, since the dam upstream is keeping the water higher for homeowners to recreate outside their homes – not out of complete necessity (a local told me at the takeout.) Amongst the many paddlers, there were also a lot of fisher-men and -women taking advantage of the wading levels. It’s always fun to see a fish pulled up on a line while paddling past like I did numerous times.
Not too far into the paddle, and after the river narrows, you’ll spot Hawk’s Nest Outfitters on river-right and soon you’ll encounter a series of S-curves and scattered boulder gardens that once again create some invigorating riffle beds. Then, the river widens on a straightaway and soon opens on river-right revealing Highway 70. This is one of the great views of the river you’ll see on the shuttle and it’s very pretty.
The water clarity and depth changed dramatically on the long straightaway leading to the Highway 70 takeout. The river gets noticeably deeper, the current slower, and the boulders slowly receed – save for some rather impressive chunks. That’s the signal that you’re approaching the marsh and then soon, the small lake. Contrasting the highway flanking river-right was a really pretty setting on river-left. With the lower water as it was, I enjoyed the visual of the exposed banks and an interesting fold created by the low level under what would be “normal bank height.” What was revealed were lines of different soil colors and hues below the variety of maple, birch, cedar and pines adorning the banks (a rather diverse tree party.) It was subtle, but really kind of pretty and interesting.
The gravel takeout off Highway 70 is soon on river-right before the river narrows and turns back left to a much wider and flatter composition. Soon, the boulder gardens are replaced with vibrant green marsh grasses. What’s interesting is that as soon as you think you’re about get to the lake and you can just cut some corners by following the Google Map satellite contour – you can’t, because these marshlands are thick at these levels. Google Maps doesn’t account for these large grassy areas which shape the river’s current – adding another quarter mile to the trip. You actually have to paddle around what I’d describe as a grass peninsula, adding the extra mileage. I suppose you could try to paddle/portage through the grasses but you’d certainly disrupt any given number of heron, ducks, and geese who use these grasses for breeding and nesting.
Despite the added mileage in the marshy area leading to the forthcoming lake, I found the whole experience really peaceful. It still felt river-like despite the wide open surroundings and again, the exposed sandy banks were just really visually pleasing and reminded me of the lower Wisconsin River.
After a long left bend, you’re straight-up in Lake-ville USA. Before navigating your way across, be on the lookout for the three primitive DNR campsites. There are a total of seven remote campsites on the upper Wisconsin nearest its headwaters which begin 38 miles upstream at Lac Vieux Desert. Three of them are located on this lake section between the Highway 70 access point and just before the takeout on County Road O (the other four are not on this section- but there’s one just after County O, one on an island on Rainbow Flowage, and two more located on the last 11.5 mile stretch after the next dam downstream.)
These sites are marked and numbered with yellow signs and are outfitted with a box latrine, picnic table and fire ring. They are all free and available on a first-come, first-served basis, but access to them must be by boat and camping is limited to one night. Which might be a fun way to extend this trip.
To my delight the signs were easy to find. I decided to take a firsthand look at WR3 since, as mentioned, I had written about it in the Canoe + Kayak Camping Guide so I figured it best to put a face to the name. Site WR3 was on lake/river-right on the downward side of a small sandbar. The campsite itself was small, but you’d be able to pitch a tent or maybe two small ones.
WR3 amenities also included: Beach front access. Peace and quiet (I guess unless you have some noisy neighbors just upstream across the lake.) And as promised, everyone’s favorite, a box toilet. It would definitely be nice to spend a night here and fish riverside – something to consider if you need a night away from, say, a family reunion.
From WR3 it’s a very short paddle across the lake until the river narrows for a few hundred yards on the approach to the County O bridge landing and the ATV bridge that flanks it in the foreground. The current becomes noticeably slack, because just past the takeout the sizable Rainbow Flowage begins.
What we liked:
I really enjoyed this paddle – the contrast of the two sections is night and day but incredibly appealing. The first section is visually stunning and incredibly fun in a different way than the open marsh and lake. One is dynamic and the other is dynamically subtle. I might say that even (maybe, especially?) the lake paddling was the highlight (which is normally crazy talk) but that’s likely because of my vested love of canoe and kayak camping options.
Also, its proximity to Eagle River is a bonus for those vacationing (or family reunion-ing), adding yet another paddling option to consider alongside the numerous options in the area.
What we didn’t like:
Really, not a thing – there’s a lot to love about this short but wonderfully diverse stretch. Again, traffic on the river, the din of traffic from the adjacent highway might bother some, but it’s still a pretty wonderful run.
You are going to share it with other humans – there were lots of people out paddling, fishing, tubing, etc. I personally don’t have an issue with tubers (if they aren’t obnoxious) and paddler traffic (if they’re friendly.) I rather enjoyed the small talk between the groups I passed along the way. It just adds to the interest in my opinion, but I do understand it’s not everyone’s cup of tea. Once you’re past the Highway 70 takeout you’ll likely have passed most traffic and will encounter fewer paddlers since most usually forgo the few miles of lake paddling. But it’s also much quieter, more peaceful, and all-in-all, just really, really pretty.
If we did this trip again:
I’d absolutely do this section again and I’ve actually already suggested to the family that this would be a great reunion outing. It’s scenic, fun, and great for beginners at levels like this. We’ll be taking-out at the Highway 70 Landing though, because lake paddling can be tiresome, monotonous, and rather lackluster after a solid and eventful 4.25 miles for those new to paddling. Plus, shorter is always better for first-timers.
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Related Information:
Wisconsin River XXI: Rainbow Flowage Dam to Bridge Road
Outfitter: Hawk’s Nest Outfitters
Wikipedia: Wisconsin River
Miles Paddled Video:
Photo Gallery:
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